Fondue in Andorra

It´s zero degrees Celsius, and it´s only 10 in the morning out in the patio of Hotel Coma-Bella. We´re bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for the bracing walk in the woods, with a trail leading straight from the back of the hotel up 600 metres toward the best ride in the world.

Well, at least the best cruise ever for me in a non-motorised vehicle -- the Tobotronc, a sort of toboggan, strapped to rails running 5,200 metres in a descent of 400m through breathtaking forest. What a rush of adrenaline, despite the fact that we used the handbrake at sharp turns. A little precaution to avoid flying in an unauthorised vehicle. (Hmm, I´m starting to use formal language here, having just begun my driving theory lessons in Rambla Catalunya.)

Our thighs ache a little with the climb, but it´s all worth it. Worth the views of the mountain range... and the fondue, glorious cheese fondue for two. All four of us dig in anyhow, and it satisfies with entrecot on the side and brandy cake with cortado (espresso with a little milk) to top it off.

Then a siesta out in the sun on deck chairs in front of the restaurant. Mmm, with salchichón (a salami-type sausage) and fruit offered by Alex the mountain man. And the smell of the outdoor grill with fragrance of the woods to boot.

Dinner is ox-tail with rice. I opt for fried mushrooms with eggs for starters while Juan Luis goes for the boiled veggies with smoked bacon. Alex, el médico trabajador and firm friend of Juan Luis, enjoys a tipple after dinner and we all drift off in somnolence.

It´s Anna´s day tomorrow, for shopping. Or at least, window shopping... We drive to Sant Julià de Lòria, a parish in the far south of the country. But we buy little. I think the clothes are a bit garish and feel, like Juan Luis does, that the mountains are a tad claustrophobic. We feel hemmed just on the second day and are glad to greet milder hills in Cadi, down south on the way home to Barcelona.

• The Principality of Andorra is a small landlocked country in western Europe, located in the eastern Pyrenees mountains and bordered by Spain and France. Once isolated, it is currently a prosperous country mainly because of tourism and its status as a tax haven.
  
• El Tobotronc is the longest toboggan ride in Europe at 5.2km, situated almost 2,000 metres in altitud. This attraction, which slides through a curving path among the forest of La Rabassa. Only for those above12. Price * (01/06/2008) 8,5 € for adults and 5,5 € for children. Information: tel. (+376) 75 97 98 – (+376) 75 97 76 – (+376) 32 38 68 * Subject to change.